Beater Repair Manual
Before disassembly, we highly recommend that you mark all components to indicate their positions on the machine, and make a corresponding sketch. This will help prevent you from installing something like a bearing collar or drive pulley in reverse.
DRIVE BELT REPLACEMENT
There are 3 different motor drive belt tensioning methods used on Reina paper beaters. Identify the method used on your machine and follow the instructions below.
A. Motor mounted on hinged plate (weight of motor tensions belt)
1. Remove large pulley cover: (if metal, pull straight up.) (If fiberglass, remove the two screws that hold cover in place.)
2. Lift the hinged plate that the motor is mounted on and remove drive belt from V-groove in pulley.
Note: With drive belt removed, you will be supporting the weight of the motor. Be careful not to pinch your hand between the motor and the chassis leg.
3. Install new drive belt in the V-groove of the two pulleys, and replace the pulley cover.
B. Motor mounted on hinged plate with rods and turnbuckle which link plate and inside bearing block
1. Remove large pulley cover by pulling straight up.
2. Loosen locking nut on turnbuckle using an open ended wrench or an adjustable wrench. After loosening, spin the nut down the threaded shaft approximately 1 inch.
3. Turn the large center section of the turnbuckle clockwise. This will loosen the drive belt tension.
4. Remove the old drive belt from the V-grooves of the 2 pulleys and replace with the new drive belt.
5. Now turn the large center section of the turnbuckle counter-clockwise to tension the new belt. The belt is correctly tensioned when it can be pushed on the middle of its long side and deflected approximately 1/2" from its normal position. Once correctly tensioned, turn the locking nut until it contacts the large center section of the turnbuckle and lock the turnbuckle in this position by retightening this nut with the open ended wrench.
6. Replace large pulley cover.
C. Motor mounted upside down on non-hinged plate suspended by 4 threaded metal rods on the underside of the chassis.
1. Remove the large pulley cover. On the stainless steel tub and stainless steel roll machine, pull the cover straight up. On the fiberglass tub machine, remove the 2 screws, and on the stainless steel tub with aluminum roll machine, remove the 2 bolts holding the cover to the side of the chassis.
2. Looking at the underside of the chassis, you will see the motor plate suspended by 4 threaded metal rods. On each rod are 2 hex nuts; one above the motor plate, and one below the plate. To release the drive belt tension, loosen all 4 top hex nuts. With the tension released, the drive belt can be lifted from the V-grooves of the drive belts.
3. Install the new drive belt into the pulley V-grooves and evenly screw the 4 nuts back down so that the motor plate stays parallel to the bottom of the chassis. You may want to use a ruler to help gauge that the plate is evenly spaced at each of its corners. Also to correctly tension a new belt or to re-tension an older belt which has stretched, it may be necessary to lower the 4 nuts on the underside of the motor plate. When the drive belt tension is properly adjusted, (see section B5 above), then lock the motor plate by tightening all 4 lower nuts against the motor plate.
4. Replace the pulley cover.
A new drive belt will stretch after running on tension systems B. and C.. Re-check the tension after running the machine for 15-20 hours. Also note that over tensioning the drive belt can cause premature wear on the pulley-side shaft bearing.
1. Remove drive belt. (See section on drive belt replacement)
2. Turn adjusting crank in the direction which raises the roll. Continue turning the crank until you hear 2 separate noises indicating that the bearing blocks have both become disengaged from their adjusting height screws. Both blocks won’t necessarily become disengaged at the same time; the second block may require up to 50-60 more turns. Depending on your machine style it can take between 225 and 450 turns before the bearing blocks are released. (You will have raised the roll about 1 inch)
3. Using an assistant or a sling and a small hoist, lift the roll and its bearings, seals, and pulley, straight up out of the tub. Try to lift as straight and evenly as possible as too much tilting can damage the shaft hole in the seal, and cause the bearing blocks to bind on their guide pins. If you have tilted the assembly too much and find that it is binding, gently tap down the higher block with a rubber mallet.
1. Have all the components loosely installed on the roll shaft. (Refer to the drawing you made when disassembling the machine).
2. Using a sling and hoist or two helpers, position the roll over the tub and carefully begin to slip the seals into their respective pockets. Do not allow the weight of the roll to put undue pressure on either of the seals as this could distort and damage the seal hole.
3. Slide the bearing blocks over their guide pins and let the roll assembly drop down onto the pins. (Caution: Watch out for your hands; don’t put them in a position where they could get pinched when the roll comes down.) If one side of the roll tilts down further than the other, the whole assembly may become cocked and locked on the guide pins. To correct this, tap the "high side" bearing block down with a rubber mallet. If your machine has bearing collars, check to see that they are not getting caught against the slots on the side of the tub, and preventing the roll from dropping down completely.
BEARING BLOCK REMOVAL
1. Remove complete assembly of bearings, seals, roll and pulley as described in roll removal.
2. To remove the inside bearing, you must first remove the large roll pulley. To do his, loosen the setscrew of the large pulley and slide the pulley off the shaft. Then remove the rectangular piece of metal (keyway stock) from the slot in the end of the roll shaft.
3. To remove a bearings, you must loosen the bearing setscrew. Note: There are 2 different systems used on the Reina machines to lock the bearings into position on the shaft. You should identify which system your machine has, and follow the instructions below.
3A One system uses a setscrew which is screwed into the collar of metal attached to the bearing. Simply loosen the setscrew on each bearing, with an Allen wrench, and you should be able to slide the bearings off.
3B The second system uses a separate metal collar which slides over a cam (an egg shaped ring of metal) which is located on the bearing. Use an Allen wrench to loosen the set screw. Leaving the allen wrench in the setscrew hole use the wrench as a lever to rotate the collar until it releases its grip on the bearing. After many years of use the collars may be difficult to turn. The collars use a cam shape on their inside surface to lock against a cam shape on the bearing itself, and these shapes could have been locked against each other during initial assembly in either a right hand or a left hand direction. When turning them during disassembly to release them from each other you may have to try turning them in both directions to find the direction which will release their grip on each other. However typically the collar will release when rotated toward the left side of the machine Next slide the collar away from the bearing and slide the bearing off of the shaft.
Over time the bearing can become frozen to the shaft and you will need to use a puller for removal Never hammer the bearings as this can cause damage. You can devise your own ‘removing tool’ with a piece of hardwood approximately 6 inches by 4 inches by 1 inch. and two large c-clamps. Place the piece of hardwood on the end of the shaft and grab the bearing block and wood together with a clamp (one clamp on each side of the block). Now tighten the clamps evenly. As the clamps tighten, they will draw the bearing block off the shaft.
INSTALLATION OF NEW BEARING INTO BEARING BLOCK
The ball bearings used on all Reina beaters are the self aligning type. Once the bearing block has been removed from the roll shaft then the actual bearing can be removed from the block.
The bearing block unit is composed of three pieces; an aluminum block, a cast iron bearing holder which is pressed into or bolted onto the aluminum block and the ball bearing unit which fits into the cast iron holder. It is only this last part; the bearing which gets replaced. The outside wall of the bearing has a spherical surface which fits into a matching spherical pocket in the cast iron holder. ( This is what gives the bearing a self-aligning ability as the bearing can rotate in its holder to adjust for any mis-alignment between itself, the shaft it holds and the other bearing) On one side of the cast iron holder are two cut outs or slots through which the bearing is removed and installed. To remove the bearing it must be tilted or gimbaled on the spherical seat of the cast iron holder. It may be a tight fit in its holder and some extra leverage may help you rotate the bearing. We suggest to put the bearing on the very end of the beater roll shaft, and use the shaft as the lever to begin turning the bearing. When the bearing has turned a full 90 degrees in the spherical pocket then the bearing can be slipped out through the two slots in the cast iron holder.
When installing the new bearing note the location of a small hole which is on the outside spherical surface of the bearing. This hole is the entry point for the grease when the bearing is being lubricated. This hole is not on the centerline of the bearing. but rather offset to one side. The cast iron holder will have an offset groove cut into its spherical pocket and the offset of the hole in the bearing must correspond to the offset of the groove when installing a bearing.
On the aluminum rolled, stainless steel tub beaters the cast iron bearing holder may need to be unbolted from the aluminum block before the bearing can be gimbaled the 90 degrees required to pass the bearing through the two insertion /removal slots. Remove the four flat head allen screws with a 3/16" allen wrench to separate the cast iron holder from the aluminum block.
BEARING BLOCK REPLACEMENT
Before installing the bearing block, you should smooth down the raised metal left by the bearing set screw on the shaft. Otherwise it may be difficult to reinstall the bearing and it could damage the lip of the plastic seal. Also after machines have been in use for some time, there is usually a varnish like residue on the shaft and in the hole on the bearing, which prevents the bearing from sliding easily on the shaft. Using a fine-toothed smoothing file and/or a small piece of 220 grit sandpaper, smooth down the raised metal on the shaft, clean the shaft, and the hole on the bearing. When clean, the bearing block should slide smoothly on the roll shaft without binding. (This is important during reassembly so that the roll can be centered in the tub). Caution: Do not polish/sand the areas where the plastic seal rides on the shaft The fine scratches left by the sandpaper could cause leaking.
Aluminum roll machine:
1. Install the seals onto the shaft.
2. Slide the bearings onto the shaft with the aluminum block facing the roll and the bearing which is attached to the aluminum block facing out away from the roll.
3. The bearings have a collar with a setscrew. Locking of the bearing collars is done after the roll with its seals and pulley installed has been lowered into the tub. and the roll has been slid side to side until it is centered between the walls of the tub. Tighten each bearing setscrew with a 1/8" allen wrench.
2 & 5 lb. Stainless roll machines: These machines use a collar which is separate from the bearing to lock the bearing in position on the shaft.
The collars are cam lock collars which have an off-center circular recess which mates up with a off center projection on the bearing.
1. Install the seals onto the shaft.
2. Install collars onto the shaft The recess pocket side of each collar should face outward away from the roll.
3. To lock these bearings first locate the roll in the center of the tub and then slide the collars over the can shape projections on the bearings. Rotate the collar until the cam shape on the inside of the collar locks against the cam projection on the bearing. When both collars are in position then tighten the setscrew in each collar.
2 lb. beaters
Seal components consist of:
A) Two brass seal pockets attached to the tub sides, located one to each side of the roll.
B) Two plastic seal plates which are pressed onto the roll shaft and which slide up and down within the pocket between the brass plate and the tub wall.
1. Measure the distances between the tub walls and the sides of the roll. This will aid you in reassembly.
2. Remove the roll assembly from the machine as described under ROLL REMOVAL, and BEARING BLOCK REMOVAL. After removing the pulley, bearing blocks and old seals from the roll assembly, inspect the condition of the shaft at the area of contact with the seal. If the shaft has become worn away or overly scored then a compensator sleeve and oversize seal is available.
3. Inspect the shaft before installing the new seal. It is important to remove any burrs left on the shaft from bearing or pulley setscrews. ( See instructions for this under BEARING BLOCK REPLACEMENT.).
4. Push the seal squarely onto the shaft. It will require a gentle pressure to start it over the end of the shaft as the hole in the seal is purposely made slightly smaller then the diameter of the shaft. The seal will have one edge with a 45 degree angle on each corner. This edge will always face downward in the seal pocket.
Two lb. beaters with stainless bladed rolls use seals that are stepped down thinner around three of its four edges. These seals are always installed so that the smaller projecting stepped surface faces in toward the roll.
Clean the shaft of any grease or oil before pushing the seal into position. If grease or oil is present at the sealing surface then abrasives can stick (especially during the bedding in process) and cause premature ware of the seal or shaft.
7 lb. BEATER SEAL REPLACEMENT
On this machine the seals are serviced without removing the roll assembly from the machine.
The seal components consist of :
A) Two brass pockets which are attached to the tub walls and located one to each side of the roll location. These pockets should not be removed.
B) Two sliding plastic plates which are trapped between the brass pockets and the tub sides, and which have a threaded brass collar attached onto their face. The two plates are unique to each other in that the seal used on the inside of the tub has clockwise threads in its collar and the outer seal plate has counter-clockwise threads on the collar. The threaded collars should not be removed from the seal plates.
C) Two brass inner packing rings which screw into the collars on the seal plates and which have corresponding unique threads, the inner ring having clockwise threads to mate with the inner seal plate, the outer having counter-clockwise threads.
D) Packing material consisting of a tallow impregnated flax cord which is compressed against the roll shaft by the packing ring.
1. Adjustment of the packing material is made by turning the packing rings with the spanner wrench provided with the beater. This wrench is used to loosen or tighten the packing ring.
The packing of the outer seal is tightened by turning the ring counterclockwise. The inner ring will need to be turned clockwise. (This direction is noted as you face each adjustment ring.) After the rings have been turned 1/4 to 1/2 a turn run the beater to check if there is any drip coming from around the shaft. If necessary shut off the beater and tighten the packing ring further in 1/4 to 1/2 turn increments
2. If tightening the ring does not stop a drip then the old packing should be removed and replaced with a new strip of packing material. First completely unscrew the packing ring from its brass collar noting the proper turning direction for unscrewing. (see above) After the packing ring has been unscrewed slide it away from the collar in order to have room to remove the old packing cord and install the new packing. The old packing should be picked out with a piece of 1/8" brass rod sharpened on one end and bent at a right angle on the same end to help it enter the brass collar. The reason to use a brass rod ( such as a welding rod ) is to prevent scratching the shaft as a harder metal might. The packing consists of a short length of tallow impregnated flax cord. (Replacement cord is available through our company.) The cord is wound around the shaft and overlapped so that the end of the lower side of the overlap joint is facing the direction of the rotation of the roll. After the packing is placed in the brass collar then reinstall the packing ring and tighten as described above.
ROLL ADJUSTMENT SCREW
There are two roll adjustment screws on each beater. On one end of the screw is a gear which meshes with the worm gear on the adjustment crank. The other end of the screw enters the bottom of the bearing block and when turned raises and lowers the roll. The screw is retained into the chassis by either a threaded collar which is then pinned to the shaft, or two threaded nuts which are tightened against each other on the threads of the screw. In general the adjustment made during initial assembly will continue to be accurate. The proper amount of play for the installed screw is .004-.006" (.102-.152mm) of up and down movement. Less play is undesirable and can lead to excessive knotting in the pulp. A maximum space of .010" is permissible.
1. To check the screw clearance use a set of automotive feeler gauges. (Note: it must be a set which includes feeler blades as small as .002, .through .010") Starting with the thinner gauges and working up to the larger sizes find the biggest gauge that can be tightly pressed inbetween the face of the gear and the chassis. (The gear and chassis are visible when looking under the tub.)
2. If the screw is either too loose or too tight then it should be reset. This is done by turning the locking collar. (located on the top side of the chassis just under the bearing block.)
On machines with a pinned collar remove the pin and turn the collar until the proper adjustment is achieved. When reinstalling the pin it may be necessary to turn the collar slightly in order to get the pin through the shaft
On machines which have a locking collar consisting of two nuts locked against each other hold the bottom nut with one wrench and turn the top nut counterclockwise (when viewed from above). The two nuts are tightly locked against each other and will require a long wrench for leverage and a good deal of force in order to break their grip against each other. ( The wrench size on all two pound beaters is 15/16".)
On two pound stainless roll machines and on fiberglass tub beaters the inside nuts are difficult to access. Some wrench designs will allow for a better connection to the nuts and will be easier to swing when loosening and tightening in this tight access area.
On beaters using the interlocking nuts a good method of adjustment is to loosely tighten the bottom nut against the chassis. Next loosen this nut one quarter of a turn. Without letting it turn anymore, hold this nut in position with a wrench and lock the top nut down upon it with a second wrench. Tighten the two nuts firmly against each other.
After adjustment and relocking of the collars recheck the measurement using the feeler gauge, and reset if necessary.
ROLL ADJUSTMENT AND BEDDING-IN
Adjusting the roll after it has been reinstalled in the tub is the most critical step for quality beating and for the protection of the machinery parts. The adjustment will make the roll ride parallel to the bedplate.
1. Check that the roll is centered in the tub. Refer to the measurements taken before disassembly or judge the spacing at the point where the roll shaft passes through the seals. If necessary loosen locking collars on bearings and slide the roll into the correct position. Retighten the collars before moving to the next step.
2. Take two identical feeler gauges of approximately .008" thickness. Insert the feeler gauges between the roll and the bedplate. Place one to the left side of the roll and the other to the right leaving enough of the gauge protruding to grasp it for sliding in and out. Turn the roll by hand until one of its blades is aiming straight up (90 degrees to the floor of the tub) This will aim the lowest blade on the roll directly over the bedplate and will help make an accurate adjustment. Turn the adjusting crank to lower the roll until you feel the gauges begin to be nipped between the lowest roll blade and the bedplate blades.
3. Slide the feeler gauges in and out as the roll is lowered. The goal is to have similar drag or tension on both sides. Usually before adjustment, one side of the roll will grab the feeler before the other which indicates that the roll is tilted and not parallel to the bedplate. Lower the roll until one or both of the feeler gauges are lightly nipped. If both feeler gauges have the same approximate amount of drag as they are slid in and out then the roll and bedplate are within adjustment and you can proceed to the BEDDING-IN steps below. Otherwise the roll MUST be leveled by resetting the gear train.
4. To reset the gear train, the adjusting crank will need to be removed from the machine. On all machines follow the shaft of the adjusting crank under the tub. On the shaft are two worm gears and two blocks which are bolted to the chassis. Remove the four bolts which are holding the two blocks in place. Be sure to support the shaft as it is removed. Don’t allow the shaft to put any leverage pressure against the counter gear (if the counter is fitted) or else the shaft of the counter can become bent. With the crank adjusting shaft removed the roll adjusting screws can be individually turned by hand or wrench Grasp the large gear at the end of the roll adjustment screw (use a glove or a rag wrapped around the gear)The best procedure is to turn each gear counterclockwise which will raise the roll over the bedplate. Then turn the gears clockwise until each feeler gauge has the same amount of drag or tension. You should not tighten the gears so much that the feeler gauges cannot be moved at all, but instead the two gears should be manipulated until there is an equal amount of resistance on each feeler as it is moved in and out between the roll and bedplate. As you adjust the two screws remember to over loosen each gear and then turn it clockwise to the final setting.
5. When you are satisfied with the feeler gauge adjustment, reinstall the crank shaft with the worm gears. You may find it necessary to shift one of the two large gears by a gear tooth in order to have the bolt holes on the shaft properly line up with the four holes in the chassis. This is acceptable to shift the gear tooth.
6. After the gear shaft is rebolted, then lower the roll again over the feeler gauges and check that the drag of the two feelers is equal. A slight variation is acceptable and will be corrected during the bedding in procedure. If the difference seems too great then repeat the above adjustment procedure.
BEDDING IN OF ROLL BLADES
Bedding in of the roll will provide the final alignment between the roll and the bedplate. It will also help give the bedplate a curve to match the rolls radius, which in turn provides more beating surface for each circulation of the pulp around the tub. And finally it will sharpen the blades.
1. Unplug the machine and lower the roll while rotating the roll by hand. Lower until the roll meets resistance from contacting the bedplate but can still be turned with a little exertion. If you have a counter on your machine set the counter to zero while the roll is in this lower position and then turn the adjusting crank 10 revolutions to raise the roll. If you do not have a counter then carefully count ten turns on the adjustment crank.
2. Make certain that there is no grease or oil present on the roll shaft at the points where the shaft goes through the tub wall seals. If grease is present in these locations the abrasive grit used in the bedding in process will stick to the grease and will cause a scoring of the shaft surface. This could lead to water leakage at the seals. It may be best to wash off these areas with a small brush and some acetone, or other grease solvent before proceeding to the bedding in
3. Fill the tub with approximately 1 lb. of dry beaten pulp with the correct amount of water for good circulation. The pulp can be rag or linter material Run the machine until the pulp is circulating well.
4. Fill a measuring cup with #80 grit aluminum oxide (carborundum) grit. This material is available through our company or from an abrasives supply distributor. As the pulp is circulating sprinkle the grit over the pulp. When all the grit has been added, and while the beater is running, lower the roll to the zero position on the counter or count back down the 10 turns that the roll had been raised. There will be a large amount of noise as the grit interacts between the roll and the bedplate.
5. When the noise level diminishes to a normal running sound, very slowly lower the roll one full turn. Again there will be a great deal of noise due to the grinding action.
6 Repeat this action one more cycle and then raise the roll 5 full turns and shut off the machine. Open the roll cover and inspect the roll blades. Each blade should have a frosted appearance across the length of its face indicating that the blade has been completely lapped in against the bedplate. If all the blades have been lapped then the pulp can be drained and the tub cleaned. Otherwise continue down one more turn and recheck. (NOTE: On a machine where a new bedplate has been installed the bedding in should be done a full 5 turns to give the bedplate a matching curve to the roll. On an older bedplate which already has a curved face, follow the above procedure to remove as little material as necessary.)
7. If your machine has a counter you should reset the counter to zero at the lowest point the roll was bedded in.
8. The pulp which contains the bedding-in grit may be saved wet or dried for future use. Take care to remove all the grit from the tub. It will take several washes with some help from a hose spray to dislodge all the pulp from the corners and bedplate area of the beater.
If at any time any of the personal safety components of the machine have become damaged or broken (Switch covers. clear safety covers. pulley or roll covers. motor wiring or safety labels) please contact us immediately for a replacement part.
We are always happy to offer telephone assistance during your repair/rebuilding work. Please call us at (718) 486-0262 - 9:30 to 5:30 EST.